The first time I became aware of a place called Sausalito was 25 years ago when Pepperidge Farm came out with a macadamia-chocolate chunk cookie named after the city. I never imagined that I’d eventually live 10 minutes away from that mythic (to my teenage mind) place, which means 10 minutes away from warm summer days, 10 minutes away from paddle boarding, 10 minutes away from the loveliest of lemon mousses, 10 minutes away from my favorite design shop, 10 minutes away from an invigorating morning jog to the ocean. Don’t get me wrong, the famous waterfront suffers from too many tourists, but can you blame them for making the pilgrimage to the namesake of the famous Pepperidge Farm cookie? It is a beautiful destination after all.
This stately hillside Victorian, once a B&B, has recently been rehabbed into the exclusive, upscale wing of the Casa Madrona Hotel. Fresh coats of white paint, fluffy four-poster beds, deep blue textiles, and old brass maritime instruments give the rooms a subtle nautical feel, although the priceless views of the bay—with sailboats bobbing about, wet-suited paddle boarders dodging helms, and kayakers pausing mid-row to gaze at frolicking seals—really drive the point home. Book a no-frills Swedish massage at the spa for a relaxing way to pass the late afternoon before heading to dinner just down the street. 801 Bridgeway, Sausalito
The exceptionally delicious tourist eatery was something of a myth, until I had one bite of the luscious cauliflower custard at the Italian trattoria, Poggio. Until I savored every last leaf of a meaty wood-fired artichoke. Until I shed a tear when the last of the porchetta, with its glistening fat cap, passed through my lips. Until I marveled at the miraculously toothsome risotto. Until I almost asked for more lemon mousse, but then realized that even a trough full of the velvety pudding would not be enough. Best to leave the experience fully satisfied, but ready and willing to bust a gut for the pleasure of one more bite of everything. 777 Bridgeway, Sausalito
About five years ago, I made a rather impetuous decision to stop living like a college student. I dumped all my Ikea dinnerware at the local Goodwill and stocked my shelves soon thereafter exclusively with Heath Ceramics. It cost an arm and a leg, but I’ve never regretted it. The brand’s midcentury design heritage, plus the glorious heft of each lovingly handcrafted piece, elevate even burnt Pop Tarts. I love swinging by the Sausalito factory to ogle the seconds—priced at a 20 percent discount, whatever imperfections they may have is likely too small to notice. Just chalk it up to wabi-sabi. I do. 400 Gate Five Road, Sausalito
On most days, the bay is calm enough for a nice paddle excursion. While hardcore surfers sneer at stand-up paddle boarders, the leisurely sport is a great shoulder workout. Beyond that, if you attempt even the simplest yoga asanas on the board, you’ll soon appreciate how much your core is at work. Rent boards or take classes from Sea Trek on the Sausalito waterfront. But, if you’d rather feel the safety of solid ground, read on. 2100 Marinship Way, Sausalito
Granted, you could just walk across the street from the Mansion to stroll along the waterfront and cringe at the overseas barge-fulls of, um, crap that’s being shamelessly peddled to tourists with vacation money burning holes in their pockets. Barring such relentless bad taste, it’s a perfectly lovely stroll. But, for the winning combination of wilderness and walking (or jogging), drive just 10 minutes to Tennessee Valley, for a 1.7-mile hoof to the ocean.
I may have been too harsh before on the whole waterfront retail scene. Munchies Candy is the only shop in the lot that actually appeals to me. How could it not, with barrel after barrel of fresh (read: super soft) saltwater taffy in an eclectic assortment of flavors, from mango (above) to molasses. There are other candies to choose from—jawbreakers, circus peanuts, and Sunkist fruit gems (my absolute favorite)—so be sure to stock up. 607 Bridgeway, Sausalito