With storybook architecture, perennial morning mist, and more fireplaces per capita than anywhere on the planet (or so it would seem), the Monterey Peninsula is one of the Bay Area’s most charming escapes. You're probably already versed in its seaside splendor and famed aquarium, so here are some lesser known spots where you can eat and shop in style and still cozy up next to a rustic hearth come nightfall.
SHOP
Awash in the soothing earth tones, this boho boutique displays handmade jewelry and home decor as well as a smart selection of vintage finds. A shared space with small-batch roaster Bright Coffee means you can linger over a latte in the stylish interior or succulent-filled patio. 281 Lighthouse Avenue, Monterey
Part of Carmel-by-Sea’s charm lies in its atmospheric passageways that lead to hidden courtyards. We're particularly fond of the Court of the Fountains whose regal glamour could have easily been designed by Kelly Wearstler. For the town’s best design source, wander into the manicured Pine Inn Courtyard and discover Fjorn, a where-have-you-been-all-my-life Scandinavian shop with covetable tableware, home goods, and custom rugs. Ocean Avenue & Lincoln Street, Carmel
This hip shop stands out among Carmel’s quaint storefronts with high-quality, casual apparel—think Japanese selvage denim and broad stripe flannel shirts—that’s designed and manufactured in LA. NE Corner Ocean Avenue & Monte Verde Street, Carmel
EXPLORE
City Hall
Carmel-by-the-Sea loves its antiquated laws and so do we. March your Louboutins over to City Hall—whose groovy signage is more 60s Goldie Hawn movie title than municipality—and get a permit for heels in excess of two inches. Once legal to strut the town's dimly-lit cobblestone streets, feel free to openly enjoy an ice cream which was legalized in 1987. Monte Verde Street between 7th & Ocean Avenue, Carmel
The brochures for Monterey State Historic Park scream high school field trip but you'd be remiss not to seek out its collection of secluded gardens. The Cooper-Molera Adobe hides one of the better examples with fruit trees, cacti, and grape vines strewn throughout its hacienda-like grounds. Save time to browse the gift shop that’s stocked with cool heritage goods and jam made from garden fruit. 525 Polk Street, Monterey
DRINK
Tucked in a courtyard hidden behind a Hansel and Gretel-like candy cottage (yes, really), this fetching shoebox-sized tasting room pours estate wines from the family-owned Alexander Smith and Paraiso labels. Their solar-powered ranch in the Santa Lucia Highlands produces good examples of the region’s Pinot Noir and less common varietals like their popular Riesling. Court of the Golden Bough, Ocean Avenue between Lincoln & Monte Verde Street
Distillery owners Brian and Joanne dreamt up their cult Navy Style Rum by imagining what the grog in Pirates of the Caribbean might taste like. The result is a richly complex rum that was engineered from the chemical compounds on up (whiskey magazines sit next to issues of Popular Mechanics in the tasting room). Book a tour and receive directions to their clandestine facilities and wondrous Island of Dr. Moreau grounds.
This downtown newcomer furthers the area’s burgeoning craft beer scene (see also Peter B’s and Cannery Row Brewing Company) with twenty rotating taps including 6-10 of their own beers brewed on-site in the handsome, repurposed theater space. 426 Alvarado Street, Monterey
This 1920s Spanish-Moroccan style hotel and restaurant is a dog-friendly, pop culture delight. Co-owned by Doris Day, it features a lantern-lit bar with the actress’ technicolor films playing overhead, a ridiculously cozy living room warmed by a roaring fireplace, and a twinkling-light courtyard with artwork by Thierry Guetta (aka Mr. Brainwash) of Exit Through the Gift Shop fame. Corner of Lincoln Street & 7th Avenue
Photo by Joann Dost
Follow the cypress tree-lined 17-Mile Drive to this upscale golf resort for a sunset drink around blazing fire pits overlooking the Monterey Bay. Servers bring fleece blankets and hot drinks—from cocoa to toddies—to warm yourself in the brisk evening air. 700 17-Mile Drive, Pebble Beach
EAT
Oversized plates of traditional breakfasts are served in cozy cafes throughout Carmel village. For more a refined take, head to Carmel Belle. The open farm-chic space sports the town’s only organic juice bar and dishes like Green Eggs & Ham with two poached eggs, prosciutto and arugula-herb purée served with country toast. Drop by during dinner for a new seasonal menu by Commis vet Kyle Odell. Doud Craft Studios on San Carlos Street between Ocean Avenue & 7th Street, Carmel
With apologies to Hunter S. Thompson: This eclectic cafe and workshop space is what the whole hep world would be doing if the hippies had won the war. Familiar jars of the company’s organic pickles and preserves as well as a genuine love of food pervade this popular gathering spot that dishes up contemporary vegetarian fare, baked goods and Blue Bottle Coffee. 173 Central Avenue, Pacific Grove
Monterey’s Historic Core hides numerous romantic Spanish-colonial homes, but the best is the one with the full bar. Housed in the (supposedly haunted) Stokes Adobe, this enchanting restaurant encompasses Clue-like rooms and an outdoor patio whose magnificent old oak tree casts shadows from the glow of stone fire pits. Come this winter, the kitchen will get a boost from the former chef at Seattle's renowned Canlis. 500 Hartnell Street, Monterey
Pans of paella and vino-filled porrons fuel this lively Spanish eatery that’s located—where else?—in a concealed Carmel courtyard. Wait for a table at their next-door Barmel that’s anchored by a monumental Victorian bar owned by Sausalito’s late madam-turned-mayor Sally Stanford. San Carlos Street between Ocean and 7th Avenue, Carmel