Beyond the throngs of tourists and kitschy Italian restaurants hides the real North Beach, a bastion of hidden alleyway spots and Beat-laced history. Whether you're sipping a killer cocktail or searching for a poetry tome, keep your eyes—and your mind—wide open when exploring this history-laden neighborhood gem.
A charming city park with a remarkable backdrop (that's Peter and Paul Church set against the sky, where Marilyn Monroe and Joe Dimaggio were famously photographed after their nuptials), Washington Square Park is the spot for a wine and beer paired daytime picnic, afternoon sunbathing, and the occasional movie night. Bring a blanket, a book, or a group of friends and take in the North Beach magic.
Also: Catch Dixieland jazz music on the last Saturday of the month at Savoy Tivoli, or check out the grandaddy of over-the-top San Francisco shows, Beach Blanket Babylon.
SHOPPING
Photo: Lauren Sloss
Get in the spirit of North Beach's old school charm with a new hat (or three) at this classy and timeless family-run establishment. The Goorins have been making hats since the late 19th century, and their North Beach shop is the first in a return to retail. From the stunning, adventure-hued interior to the fabulous selection of caps for ladies and gents alike (from Panama to wide-brimmed felt stunners), count on the knowledgeable staff to help you find the perfect hat to suit your face and personal style. Also worth noting: the shop hosts weekly happy hours, and has a soon-to-be-used underground speakeasy space from the Prohibition years. 1612 Stockton.
Photo: Lauren Sloss
This brand-new boutique is one of our favorite recent North Beach finds. Featuring women's apparel and accesories, Proper Fox has a covetable collection of '60s and '70s-inspired mod, boho fashion—think LA-based designers, local jewelry, and killer bags featuring embroidery and fringe. Groove to the owner's vinyl selection while trying on your new favorite outfit. 552 Columbus Ave.
Photo: Lauren Sloss
This Bay Area-chain has become a shopping staple for a reason—cute clothes, great boots, playful accesories, and a perfect selection of that's-exactly-the-gift-I-was-looking-for whimsy. The North Beach location hits all the right notes, virtually guaranteeing that we'll leave with a new purchase should we find our way on Grant Street. 1445 Grant.
Photo: Lauren Sloss
101 Music
Vinyl-lovers, unite—101 Music is a great destination for rare recordings, old favorites, and LPs you didn't know you needed. Devote some time to paging through the stacks of used records, and don't forget to check out the Jazz selection for a great selection of mid-century North Beach favorites. Rock posters, instruments, and more music memorabilia are on hand, too (their Green Street location has an even more overwhelming selection of the above). 1414 Grant.
Photo: Lauren Sloss
Hook yourself up with a new set of wheels at this boutique bicycle shop, slinging wheeled beauties for riders of all levels. In addition to bikes, the Cykel team offers repairs and tune-ups, and has local art on display all over the shop's walls. 548 Union.
Photo: Lauren Sloss
This too-cute card store offers locally printed goods, kid-friendly gifts, and San Francisco memorabilia that put traditional "tourist" shops to shame. Find cards for every occasion, stationary you'll be making up excuses to send, and gifts for every member of your family (and beyond). 1415 Grant.
Photo: Lauren Sloss
This legendary bookstore surpasses all expectations, from the incredible selection of local authors and lore to the three floors of reading material. This is an independent bookstore (and publisher) at its best—staff picks and recommendations are spot on, and you're bound to find a gorgeous hardcover book of SF-centric essays to page through for years to come. 261 Columbus.
Also: Check out vintage goods at Old Vogue, a designer collective outpost at Metis Makers, and hand-crafted menswear at Al's Attire.
COFFEE
Photo: McCanon
The OG of North Beach coffee shops, Trieste is the spot for great espresso, jukebox spun tunes, and noshing with locals who have been holding court at this corner spot for decades. You may find yourself sitting next to Francis Ford Coppola—Trieste is where he wrote The Godfather, and he's still a fixture here from time to time. 609 Vallejo.
Photo: pkingDesign
We love everyting about Reveille, from their wonderfully roasted beans to their avocado toast (uh huh). Pop by their North Beach outpost for a leisurely coffee date, a delicious lunch, or some killer coffee to go while you stroll around the neighborhood. 200 Columbus.
Photo: Lauren Sloss
Hole in the Wall
Blink and you'll miss this literal hole-in-a-wall coffee spot. This little coffee counter is the place to get delicious pour-over brews in "blonde" or "brunette" form (light and dark roast). Decaf is never an option (and it says so on the chalkboard menu). Perch on a stool in the sun, or bring your brew to the park. 524 Union.
Also: Get your Blue Bottle Fix at The Station, try neighborhood-roasted beans at Graffeo, or enjoy some people watching with your latte at Caffe Greco— they've got floor-to-ceiling windows and a parklette for your viewing pleasure.
FOOD
Photo courtesy of Park Tavern
It's hard to believe Park Tavern hasn't been holding court on Washington Square forever—the gorgeous space is the spot to see and be seen, preferably over a great cocktail and the infamous Marlowe burger. Dinner here is great, but we love it for brunch; ideally, with a window-facing seat, an order of deviled eggs, and an Aperol Spritz to wash it down. 1642 Stockton.
Photo: The Square
From the '80s-fab stone wall to the cocktails we just can't stop drinking, there are more and more reasons to head back to The Square. The bar food-friendly menu has a sizable selection of shareable plates (don't miss the beef tartare), well-appointed sandwiches, and farm-fresh cuisine straight from the Santa Cruz mountains. 1707 Powell.
Photo: Sonya Yu
Easily one of the hottest spots in SF at the moment, Tosca's April Bloomfield-backed revamp managed to maintain the incomparable vibe of this legendary neighborhood institution. What's new is the delicious menu of thoughtful Italian cuisine, from housemade pastas to a wide assortment of antipasti, perfect to go with a killer cocktail. Tosca is always jam-packed, so show up early, or better yet, late—they're open until 2 a.m., making this an epic spot to finish your night. Whatever you do, don't miss the House Cappucino, a blend of armagnac, Buffalo Trace, Dandelion chocolate, and milk. 242 Columbus.
Photo: Lauren Sloss
Mario's Bohemian Cigar Store
Perched on the corner of Washington Square Park, Mario's is exactly where you want to be for a pint of local beer, a carafe of the house red, and the best melty sandwich you've had lately, toasted on fresh Liguria focaccia (made just across the park). We love the grilled eggplant, studded with feta and arugula, but Mario's meatball sandwich is famous for a reason. Plan on staking out a table and staying here a while. 566 Columbus.
Photo: Capo's
Tonys Pizza Napoletana & Capo's
Tony Gemignani is easily the pizza king of North Beach, if not SF. His neighborhood pizza joints sling some of the city's best pies—his eponymous flagship offers an encyclopedic look at various pizza styles (from Detroit to Neapolitan), while Capo's is a study in old school Chicago eating. Pick your pleasure—deep dish or other—and show up with an appetite. Cocktail, beer, and wine offerings and both spots pair excellently with your pie(s) of choice, too. 1570 Stockon & 641 Vallejo.
Photo: Little Vine
Consider Little Vine to be the perfect gourmet grocery store. From fresh pastas to gorgeous cuts of locally-raised meats, this small store packs a punch thanks to the carefully curated selection of products. It's also a one-stop-shop for your park picnic needs—wine, beer, cheese, and charcuterie are all on offer (they host regular wine tastings and daily sandwich specials, too). Bonus: you can get a taste of what's to come at the soon-to-open Union Larder in Russian Hill, the wine bar/store/restaurant from the Little Vine team. 1541 Grant.
Also: Try Daniel Patterson's stunning modernist cuisine at Coi; sample textbook-perfect Roman-style pizza at Cinecitta; gorgeous Neapolitan pies at Baonecci and newcomer Il Casaro (which is also a mozzarella bar!); old school SF-style at Original Joe's; straightforward seafood at its best at Sotta Mare; gonzo Asian fusion at perma pop-up Chubby Noodle; tacos, ceviche and beyond at Don Pisto's; stoner food gone legit HRD Smokin' Grill; Belgian grub and brews at La Trappe; incredible Italian-style sandwiches at Molinari; freshly-made sausages and cuts of meat at Little City Market; pure romance at souffle-centric Cafe Jacqueline; and the best late-night slices in town at Golden Boy.
DRINK
Photo: Schill
Spec's
Spec's, or the Adler Museum, is eccentric North Beach history in one crazy nutsell of a bar. From the walls, layered with artifacts and memorabilia, to the clientele, who may have been perched on the same bar stool for the past 50+ years, this is an only-in-North-Beach spot that you'd be a fool not to love. Share a pitcher of beer with friends, sip on something brown, and pair it all with a wedge of gouda and a basket of Saltine crackers. 12 Williams Place.
Photo: Lauren Sloss
Church Key
This remarkable little beer bar manages to feel hidden, despite its location on the often-thronged Grant Avenue. Marked by a glowing key, it features a frequently rotating draft selection, an epic list of bottled beers, and deep soul cuts spun on vinyl on Wednesday nights. 1402 Grant.
Photo courtesy of 15 Romolo
One of our favorite cocktail bars in the city, Romolo wins our hearts with its alleyway location, well-stocked jukebox, and photo booth housed in an old phone booth. Oh, and the drinks are tops, too: try the well-named Socialites & Cigarettes, or the Sleep Jean, made with chamomile-infused bourbon. Their food is also fantastic, making it a great place for dinner, late-night noshing, and weekend brunch. 15 Romolo Place.
Photo: Comstock Saloon
Sip in Barbary Coast-style at Comstock, a gorgeously appointed saloon with stiff drinks, tasty food, and a decided nod to SF's colorful history (see: the original urinal trough underneath the bar). We're fans of ordering the Barkeep's Whimsy, an off-menu concoction that changes depending on the bartender's mood, ideally paired with a dozen oysters or so. Their lunch is a win, too, particularly if you're looking for a good midday buzz. 155 Columbus.
Photo: Lauren Sloss
Time-travel back to an era of guys and dolls, cats and dames at Tony Nik's, a classic cocktail bar where both formal attire and double dealing feel apropos. Sidle up to the bar or snag the cozy booth at the back, sip on a gin martini or a Manhattan, and make like a film noir. 1534 Stockton.
Also: Brave the smell and groove to the music at The Saloon; get an education in dive bar excellence at Mr. Bing's and Hawaii West; enjoy great beers and an outdoor patio at Rogue; and grab an upstairs seat at Vesuvio.
ENTERTAINMENT AND BEYOND
Photo: Doc Rickett's
We weren't sure where to put this just-opened powerhouse of a North Beach spot—Doc Rickett's features a mouthwatering food menu, classic cocktails, and a downstairs performance space featuring comedy, music, and readings called Doc's Lab. We think the best approach is to try it all at once: sample housemade charcuterie and seasonal plates over drinks while taking in a show. Impress your date by pointing out the John Steinbeck reference in the restaurant's name. 124 Columbus.
Photo: juicyrai
Hand's down one of the best music venues in the city, Bimbo's classic night club houses acts from up-and-coming indie bands to beloved local '80s cover bands. Whatever the show, prepare to dance the night away. 1025 Columbus.
Follow Lauren @laurensloss.